At Tiger Supplies, you will find a great selection of crowbars and wrecking bars. Any construction worker or homeowner who makes home improvements needs these tools.

The company is the world’s best wrecking bar vs crowbar supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

At Tiger Supplies, you will find a great selection of crowbars and wrecking bars. Any construction worker or homeowner who makes home improvements needs these tools.

Crowbars 

A crowbar is a leverage-based hand tool used to pry open things, like panelling and crates. It is a popular demolition hand tool. The majority of crowbars have two leveraged ends, such as our  Revolt Heel & Point Crowbar. It has a heeled chisel and point made from high-quality steel with hardened tips, which can be used for different tasks.

Wrecking Bars

A wrecking bar differs from a crowbar primarily because:

• It contains a nail puller.

• It is shorter in length.

A wrecking bar has one end that is flat, curved and V-shaped to serve as a nail puller (claw). The other end has a chisel shape, which makes it useful for levering actions when prying or demolishing.  For instance, you can use wrecking bars to pry apart pieces of framing timber that is nailed together. 

Demolition jobs can be made easier with this versatile tool, which provides tons of leverage.

Wrecking bars are being produced in bright colours so that you can find them easily when working. Tiger Supplies&#; Wrecking Bar has an easy-find yellow design so it can be seen in demolition circumstances where there is a lot of debris. This wrecking bar is made of steel and has been forged with polished claw and chisel ends. It also has a plastic coated bar for a good grip in wet conditions.

Pry Bars 

Pry bars are leverage hand tools useful for prying things apart. They come in various shapes and sizes and are versatile tools.

They are useful for:

• Furniture repairs

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• Removing nails from wood

• Scraping off paint

• Removing floor tiling

• Puncturing glass

Our Pry bar Set contains 5 pieces that have been heat-treated to withstand rigorous use. Each piece has strong plastic handles. This set is ideal for removing nails. You can also use our pry bars as a lever to force apart two objects.

Maintenance 

With proper care, crowbars, wrecking bars and pry bars can last many years. Here are some tips:

• Prolonged exposure to water is best avoided. Do not leave your tools out in the rain. If they get wet, dry them as soon as you can.

• Use non-corrosive oils to clean your bars when they get dirty.

Delivery

Tiger Supplies will send out all orders complete to help reduce our carbon footprint and to prevent waste from excess packaging.

We use estimated despatch dates to give you an indication of when your items will be despatched.  We try our best to estimate these dates accurately at the time of order. 

Please note standard delivery is only available to customers in mainland UK, other locations are liable for an additional charge. If your delivery location is outside of mainland UK and you would like to be quoted, enquire with the sales team. 

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Wow! I like it. In all the years of people wanting to heat treat a knife as if it were a pry bar, this is the first time I have heard somebody ask how to do a real pry bar!

This can be an excellent opportunity to clear up some confusion on the topic by coming at it from the opposite direction of how does one actually make a good pry bar meant for a pry bar. I wonder how many will then be ready to discuss how to heat treat a pry bar so that it can be used to cut things?:3:

I like your thought process Brad, you are going for a good homogenous heat treatment without going for uber-ductility. The main property of the pry bar is rigidity, you don&#;t want it bending or flexing too much otherwise it won&#;t be much use in its primary function of applying leverage. This is first and foremost accomplished in the shape and cross section. One can keep it from bending with a thorough heat treatment but flexing cannot be affected by any of our heat treating efforts, only designing its shape to be rigid will do that (incredibly important note to file away for knives).

I have forged out many 5 foot pinch point bars for local millwrights to move really heavy things and have always just left them in the normalized condition, mostly because those guys couldn&#;t afford the extra heat treatments. The only place that the geometry didn&#;t carry the piece through was indeed the very tip that would deform when jammed and wedged into tight spots involving concrete.

A bent pry bar is obviously useless, so heat treatment is there to keep the thing from permanently deforming should the geometry&#;s limits be exceeded. But if one gets carried away then there is the chance of brittle failure when forces are extreme enough to overcome the geometry; under such force the danger is flying shards and sharp fragments. It must also always be remembered how often we hammer on a pry bar to wedge it into position, bringing impact toughness into play in ways knives should never see. So we need some toughness to handle all of these things.

Harden the thing normally and then I would draw it back around 550F. This will not give any performance like you would want in a knife for edge holding, but it will give enough resistance to the bend while keeping it together under extreme or sudden loads.

The chart above is more for hardening operations and can only give you a rough idea of tempering hardness. I have no tempering harness numbers on my site for for two reasons- the stuff is pretty touch and go on such numbers and due to previous treatments and chemistry deviations should be dealt with on an individual basis, and secondly I don&#;t work with it that much at all any more so I would have very little personal data to stand behind for a solid recommendation. But for what it is worth, while it is not one of my first choices for a knife, it certainly would be one of my first choices for a pry bar!

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