Fence Post Spacing - A step-by-step guide

Fence Post Spacing

A step-by-step guide

Do you have a fence installation project at hand? If you&#;re already thinking about your gate posts, end post, deciding whether to use wooden posts or steel&#; you might feel overwhelmed already!

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from Puhuasheng.

When planning to build a fence, it is important to take into account the correct spacing and depth of fence posts.

Plan ahead to determine fence post spacing for a long-lasting installation

So, how far apart should fence posts be? The standard spacing for fence posts is 8 to 25 feet apart, depending on the type of fence. A standard wood fence would require posts 8 feet apart, while a high-tensile wire could span 25 feet.

Keep in mind, terrain, climate conditions, snow and ice loads, and soil conditions are also factors that need to be considered.

How to identify what fence you need

Identify a fence according to your project before thinking about post spacing.

What type of project do you have at hand? You could be laying out a fence for crop protection, perimeter control, livestock or wildlife containment or exclusion.

Taking into consideration the nature of your needs will help you first determine the type of fence required to complete a successful project.

Discover all the fencing options STAY-TUFF has for you

STAY-TUFF has options that offer durability, integrity and performance you won&#;t find anywhere else.

Our fencing solutions come in different heights, and are suitable for home projects, as well as commercial or industrial applications.

How to lay out a fence for your needs

Before starting any project&#;

• Check property lines!
  It is important that you verify and have the utmost certainty before setting brace and line posts. This will save you time and trouble!
• Call Before You Dig
  Always call before you start any fence construction to make sure the area is clear of hidden obstacles and dangers like buried power lines, water lines, gas lines, etc.
  Different parts of the country have different numbers and places to call.
  

STARTING A PROJECT

You should always sketch a map of your property that includes property lines, underground utilities, natural obstacles and other important features before installing the fence or any fence posts, for that matter.

After you have finished your sketch, map all the fence support elements, which include:

Make a sketch of where the ground your fence will be installed

• Brace posts &#; Designed to anchor a fence and support its weight
• Line posts &#; Provide support along the length of the fence
• T-Posts &#; Hold the fence in a vertical position
• Boss posts &#; Also hold the fence vertical, and provide extra support along the fence where there are severe dips, hips and ledges in the fence line

How to select posts

Let&#;s dig a bit deeper into the subject of posts.

Here&#;s what you need to know about the difference between them:

Selecting the correct type of fence post is fundamental for a successful fencing project

Brace posts

Brace posts give stability to your structure.

A brace is required every time your fence stops, starts or changes directions, regardless of the length of its run.

These posts are what keeps the fence tensioned and help it support its weight.

They are composed of the following:

• End posts &#; The anchors of the fence. Wire is attached at the beginning and end of each straight run
• Brace posts &#; Hold end post in place, along with cross members.
• Cross members &#; They connect end & brace posts, allowing them to distribute the force of the fence.
• Brace wires &#; They transfer the force between the posts of the brace

T-POSTS & bosses

For a STAY-TUFF Fence, post spacing for T-Posts and Boss Post varies between 8&#; to 25&#;, taking into consideration terrain, soil (light soil will require less distance between posts), turns in the fence line, and animal pressure (place them closer in high animal pressure applications).

STAY-TUFF allows the use of less line posts with greater strength than other fences

STAY-TUFF offers a wide range of products, offering you the option to use less posts, which in turn will save money and labor, while investing in a good-quality fence wire that will last for generations.

Post spacing

The setting of your posts needs to be done correctly because it affects the performance, durability, and longevity of the fence.

If fence posts are too close together, the fence could be too ridged and not allow the wire to have the flex and give to absorb an impact.

On the other hand, spacing posts too far apart is detrimental to the life expectancy of fence structures, due to the loads placed on the fence during climate changes, weather events and from animal pressure.

Fence post spacing is made easy with STAY-TUFF

Fastening wires

STAY-TUFF also has the tools to install, fasten and splice fence wire &#; all steps which are needed to complete an installation project.

We carry the tools you need for every step of posts & wire installation.

We&#;re glad to connect you with an authorized distributor! Visit https://staytuff.com/store-locator/ to learn more. 

BAM

Posted 6/1/ 18:48 (#)
Subject: Dumb fencing questions...

IA

I'm a bit of a livestock rookie, so take it easy on me. I'm going to put up some of this fence to have about a dozen goats around the place. I'm gonna use t-posts. 1. How close together should the post be? 2. Should the posts be inside the fence or outside the fence? 3. I am planning on just using pieces of wire to attach the fence to the T- posts, maybe 4 per post. Is this a NAT approved method? Thanks.

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kyfarmboy

Posted 6/1/ 19:14 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

cromwell ky

I put my post on the outside the wire method will work but they make clips for t post to hold the wire. Id space them 10 or 12 ft apart but I use electric barbwire on my goats. tc806

Posted 6/1/ 19:16 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

Casey IL. ( I -70 ) then south on rt.49

I would set T post 8' apart on the out side of the fence. That is so they push against the post when pushing on the wire. Four wires might work but five would be better with one on bottom and one 8" up and one on top last two divide between the open part of fence left.
This is only my opinion. GangGreen

Posted 6/1/ 19:20 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

Eastern Iowa

Eastern Iowa

You are going to want good, well built braces on the ends. We don't build with woven wire anymore, but when we did, we used to pull it tight with a 2x6 folded into it past the end post. Tied a log chain to the board above and below and let the tractor loader back until it had enough tension on it. Then we stapled it tight to the wood brace post before easing the pressure off, cutting it top to bottom, and tying it around the post. I always wondered if that's how everybody did that. Line posts should probably be 16-20 feet apart, but I know some people can get away with spreading them farther. Most places "here" give away the hardened wire t-post clips with purchase if you ask, but I've tied a lot of them on my farm as well. Good luck! Balzy

Posted 6/1/ 19:31 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

central Iowa

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Like you said for stretching. But instead of easing the tension, you one by one cut and wrap each wire, while the tension is on. Holds better than making the staples do it all. Then we'd loosen the staples and knock the wire wrap to the center of the post, to keep the tension from trying to spin your corner post. John SD

Posted 6/1/ 20:21 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

I've tightened woven wire by tying it to a length of old post cut to fit the height of the woven wire, somewhere between a foot or 2 feet back from the corner post.

Used 2 wire stretchers, one top and one bottom to get the woven wire as tight as I can. Then used barbless wire to tie each end of the post to the corner post before you take the stretchers off.

If you do it right, you have just about the right space left to take your pliers and twist the barbless wire tight.

Another method is to make a homemade woven wire clamp by drilling holes through a couple 2x4s,

Sandwich the woven wire between the 2x4 and bolt together. Using a tractor or pickup out front of the corner post as an anchor, use a come-along hooked on via a length of chain to the wire clamp to stretch the woven wire flush against the corner post.

Staple each individual wire securely to the post and cut the wire at the clamp. Wrap each individual wire around the corner post and tie back to itself.

Be extra careful around any wire under tension. Not sure which I dislike most, woven wire, or goats! I'm glad it's you and not me! ;-)

Edited by John SD 6/1/ 20:24

Ben

Posted 6/1/ 20:25 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

North Mo.

I hope that isn't the woven you will use. Look into fixed knot woven high tensile, lighter and more durable IMO. Slugbait

Posted 6/1/ 20:37 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

Pedee, Oregon

Pedee, Oregon

If you put that up for goats you'd better build an electric fence inside it to keep them off it. Goats will have that woven wire on the ground in no time at all. Galaxie64

Posted 6/1/ 21:15 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

WY, OK

Easy way to remember on fence is the wire needs to be on the side with the most pressure so in this case the wire needs to be on the same side as the goats.  That way they are pushing the fence against the post and not away from it.  Post spacing depends greatly on post length and weight, or how much will be in the ground, and what type of soil. I'm going to guess you have pretty moist soil so a 1.33# 6'  or longer post would be good, at least 2' in the ground and you may be able to get away with as much as 14'-16' span.  I'd use T post clips but I'd do at least half the wires and probably clip at least the bottom 2 or 3 so they don't curl it up.  Wire goes on the knobby side of the post.

4WD

Posted 6/1/ 21:26 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80

Hopefully, you can watch some you-tube videos, also.

 

This just happens to be one showing the "fence clips" that some of the guys are talking about. (this video just happens to show someone's tool, for installing clips)

{ We just use a nail and pliers, on fence clips.}

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voRuk_BJxhs

Edited by 4WD 6/1/ 21:29

German Shepherd

Posted 6/1/ 21:41 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

As others said, posts to the outside of fence.   For sheep, we space our poles about 12-14' apart.   We use regular T post clips, probably 4 to a pole.   For stretching, I've always used (2) 2x6's bolted together, space the holes in the boards about 8-9" apart and tighten securely and use washers.   Then use come alongs to pull the fence good and tight.

x

Posted 6/2/ 05:12 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

NE Iowa

I can't remember what brand woven wire we used for our goat lot. We put the posts about 10-12' apart and used regular wire clips like you would for barb wire. The most important thing for woven wire fence for goats is the spacing. What you show in the pic is what you need, 4" x 4". Any bigger opening like the traditional 6"x8" and they get their heads caught. denice.r

Posted 6/2/ 06:41 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

south east Indiana

Yep you sure have to watch how big the squares are especially if you have goats with horns. They seem to know that they can turn their head to get Into a square but can't turn their head to get it out. Goats and sheep only have a forward gear and not a reverse.

Look at Premier1 on the net. They have some great electronet that you can move to different places to rotational graze. I would build a paddock for winter with woven wire but you can get away with the electro net for the rest of year. Moving the goat will help alot for worms also, keep up on deworming. Parasites are a big deal with goats

Red brand is not the brand of fence I would pick. Doesnt last very long. Goat will climb on it and push it down putting their front legs on it Von WC Ohio

Posted 6/2/ 06:53 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

All old time fence grandpa and great grandpa put in was with line T posts every rod or 16.5' apart.

Years later when taking them all out it was sure nice for finding broken missing fence post stubs.

Find any post stub you could measure 16.5' and find the next ones like clockwork.

Much better than some random width between posts or being inconsistent.

 

Their insistence on the rod measurement made my life much simpler all those years later.

Hay Hud Ohio

Posted 6/2/ 07:12 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

SW Ohio

SW Ohio

A few of my thoughts....
there will never be Red Brand on this farm again
When we stretch woven wire to a well braced end or corner, we have a push pole that puts some of the pulling pressure onto the end post, helps take the slack out of the brace assembly, our clamp is two 2x2" angle irons with the wire inbetween, on long stretches even it will slip. One at a time the wires are cut and tied around end post and worked to center so post doesn't turn as mentioned.
With T posts and small lots with strong animal pressure you can't put them too close together, on any run we do, we throw in a wood post every other or every third one
Sheep and especially goats will show you soon enough where the weak spots are in your fence. GangGreen

Posted 6/5/ 12:41 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Dumb fencing questions...

Eastern Iowa

Eastern Iowa

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Y Post with Teeth.

This is a goat fencing thread, and I didn't know where else to put this when I saw it. But I laughed.

http://youtu.be/DV_3qx-oBms