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FCAW cracks at stops

13 May.,2024

FCAW cracks at stops

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Eric Carroll

Date

03-11-2010 03:34

We dont run flux core very often at my shop or on the truck, we usually run dual shield in the field if we need lots of metal put down. I do keep a roll on the truck in case the wind is a problem. My question is about small cracks at the end of small stringers. It seems to happen on short stringers when the weld is stopped with no pause or weave at the end. The wire was Hobart fabshield 28, 1/16 dia. I dont know the volts because my feeder doesnt have read outs on it.

Wrench Tech

Date

03-11-2010 16:17

In my experience Lincoln NR212 or NR211 is a much better product than the fabshield.
I know what you nean. Small cracks at the end of a skinny bead is common especially if the joint isn't preheated. Are you using preheat in this case? And what type of steel are you joining?
Tom

jwright650

Date

03-11-2010 16:27

Your craters need to be filled. If you terminate the arc and withdraw the wire too quickly from the puddle, the weld bead has the wrong width to depth profile and can promote cracking from the crater. When you stop your weld, wait a half of a sec, (but while the puddle still has a red color) and bump the trigger and back fill into the crater.

Lawrence

Date

03-11-2010 17:58

Eric

I'm a but confused.

You mentioned that you keep a roll fo "dual shield" (gas shielded FCAW) on your truck.

Most of the advice in this thread is geared to self shielded electrodes

And in all my searching I can't find that there is even such a thing as Hobart Fabshield 28

Prolly your issue is related to technique or parameters... But knowing more about exactly what your working with would help the folks in solving your issue.

Iron Head 49

Date

03-11-2010 19:55

http://www.hobartbrothers.com/products/Hobart/FABSHIELD_23/

I wonder if he actually meant to type Fabshield 23?

Iron Head 49

Date

03-11-2010 11:16

Eric I’ll pretty much guarantee you’re running too much voltage! You are using the drag technique? Not pushing like with Mig?

Can’t say I’ve run any Hobart 28, a lot of 21-B, here is some NR-212.

Attachment: NR-212_small.jpg (0B)

Eric Carroll

Date

03-12-2010 04:04

I more than likley mis-read the sticker on the roll. I'll check it as soon as I can. The material is plain a36 plate. No pre-heat. What I meant to convey was that we always use a dual shield wire when we can. I keep a roll of flux-core for times when the wind is a problem. I would like to try some of the lincoln wires but I kind of remember the spools being a different type than what fits my Miller feeders. I may have over stated this being a problem, I really wanted to know why this happens if you dont pause or weave a little bit at the end of the weld. Heres my short list of fcaw rules of thumb, pull or drag, stringers or small weave. Please add to my list or edit it.

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ssbn727

Date

03-12-2010 17:30

Hi Eric Caroll!

First off, "WELDCOME TO THE WORLD'S GREATEST WELDING FORUM!!! :) :) :)"

now, what you need to clarify to all of us is to let us know if you are welding with a self shielded flux cored wire, or a gas shielded fux cored wire instead... Once you clarify that, one or more of us can assist you because there is a certain amount of confusion you're generating and it probably unintentional yet nonetheless, it's still present as my colleague Lawrence has already pointed out in a previous reply to you... So please clarify to us about whether or not you're using a self shielded FCAW wire, or a gas shielded FCAW wire instead because the cause of the crack at the end of the weld bead may just be totally different if one is using a self shielded wire as opposed to a gas shielded one. ;0

Respectfully,
Henry

Hi Eric Caroll!First off,now, what you need to clarify to all of us is to let us know if you are welding with a self shielded flux cored wire, or a gas shielded fux cored wire instead... Once you clarify that, one or more of us can assist you because there is a certain amount of confusion you're generating and it probably unintentional yet nonetheless, it's still present as my colleague Lawrence has already pointed out in a previous reply to you... So please clarify to us about whether or not you're using a self shielded FCAW wire, or a gas shielded FCAW wire instead because the cause of the crack at the end of the weld bead may just be totally different if one is using a self shielded wire as opposed to a gas shielded one. ;0Respectfully,Henry

Wrench Tech

Date

03-13-2010 06:41

I think you`re probably running Fabshield 21 B. Preheat your joint a little and pause your travel a little befiore you break the arc. I don`t think you have a serious problem.
The Lincoln wires Nr 211 or 212 will work just fine with your miller feeder. The spools look different but they work okay. If you can`t get along with the Hobart wire then try a roll of the Lincoln wire next time. I have to tell you that the last time I bought a roll of Hobart 21-B I threw it in a dumpster. But lots of guys use it all the time. Go figure. I use a lot of Bonarc E71T-9 (a dual shield wire) with C02 but I also keep a roll of Lincoln NR211 handy for windy days - just like you.
Tom

TANKIE

Date

03-12-2010 04:55

we use an lincoln ln-25 in the erection of flatbottom storage tanks, the cause of your problem a crack in the eye or a pin hole is due to when you stop the ln-25 cuts the sheilding gas off imedietly, lincoln makes something that you insall so when you stop welding the gas purges out for 3 sec we have had them insalled on all our ln-25 it cured the problem i will try to find out tomarrow what the gismo is called hope this has helped any, mike

Eric Carroll

Date

03-13-2010 02:08

what I'm asking about is plain Flux core wire. We run lots of dual shield in the field. The only time we use Flux core(no gas) is when its too windy for the shielding gas.

jahiw44

Date

03-13-2010 02:53

I run alot of Lincoln NR212. At the end of the weld you need to make sure the crater is filled. I do this by doing circles in the crater until it is filled . Stringers or weaves. Another thing ,carring a spool of any wire on your truck is not a good idea unless it is protected from moisture.

ssbn727

Date

03-13-2010 02:54

Thank you for the clarification... ;)

Now, in order to prevent this from happening in the future, all you need to do is when you reach the end of the joint, before you let go of the trigger, come back into the center of the crater and fill it for about one second and this should eliminate the abrupt crater shrinkage that occurs right after the arc is extinguished and no filler is deposited into the crater... If you do not come back into the crater and fill it, the crater will shrink too fast and therefore cause cracks to form within it once it solidifies. ;)

Hope this helps! ;)

Respectfully,
Henry

Thank you for the clarification... ;)Now, in order to prevent this from happening in the future, all you need to do is when you reach the end of the joint, before you let go of the trigger, come back into the center of the crater and fill it for about one second and this should eliminate the abrupt crater shrinkage that occurs right after the arc is extinguished and no filler is deposited into the crater... If you do not come back into the crater and fill it, the crater will shrink too fast and therefore cause cracks to form within it once it solidifies. ;)Hope this helps! ;)Respectfully,Henry

Wrench Tech

Date

03-13-2010 06:44

You got it right on, Henry.

Eric Carroll

Date

03-15-2010 04:08

About carrying spools of wire on the truck, they are kept in a bag(the one they come wrapped in) in a box in a tool box. How do you run a welding truck without keeping the stuff you use with you? About the cracks, they are normal if you dont use the proper technique before stopping, correct? I have only noticed them on small tacks.

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