The document compares three-jaw and four-jaw chucks, stating that three-jaw chucks have jaws that move together while four-jaw chucks have jaws that move separately, allowing for higher depths of cut, eccentric turning, and better centering accuracy in four-jaw chucks. Four-jaw chucks also have more gripping power and can hold heavier workpieces.
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When you're being lazy, for one. We use 3 and 6 jaw chucks (with centers in the chuck and tailstock) to turn down square and irregular stock to test size.
I only use 4 jaw chucks when I absolutely must... in a pinch, a 4 jaw chuck can be used to mount non-round material, allowing for precise holes to be bored into the part as long as you make the rotational center of the part the same as the place where you want to bore the hole.
4 jaw chucks plagued me in tech (high school), because I wasn't aware of the proper way to indicate parts while using them... a little practice goes a long way. After about 50 tries, I finally got it down pretty well. I would recommend starting with a simple .001 travel indicator to start, then moving on to . a bit later. After that (finer graduations, ., etc.) it becomes very frustrating to get anymore "accurate" than that.
As for accuracy (TIR-esque), 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks can be very accurate... but a 3 jaw with adjustment is a must for this to happen. 6 jaw chucks also can have that feature, and it is very useful to have. As for the 4 jaw, it doesn't require "adjustment" screws, but it is slow going for a long time until you're used to them.
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