Just wanted to let everyone know how this problem was finally resolved. All I ended up doing was to take the valve lid/cover off, applied a liberal amount of lube and then resealed the lid. When tightened the lid on the valve, I alternated the tightening of the screws using the star approach suggested above and elsewhere. But the trick is not to overtighten the screws! All I did was to apply the minimal amount of torque required to get the lid to touch the valve housing beneath each screw. There is about a 1 mm gap between the lid and the housing when holding the lid in place on the housing by hand (as in before inserting any screws). That did the trick. In fact, I had also installed 2 other new valves to accommodate the solar loop: 1 other Jandy check valve on the solar return and then a Pentair 2-way valve to implement a solar bypass. Neither of these other two valves ever leaked "out-of-the-box." In fact, for the Pentair valve, I had to remove 4 screws to mount the actuator assembly and in the process I noticed how little torque Pentair manufacturing had applied to their valve cover screws.
Hope this discussion will be useful for others and thanks all of you for the inputs. I guess Jandy manufacturing or someone at the supplier's location applied too much torque on the screws.
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Is there an acceptable amount of air leakage from the check valve or should it be air tight? I searched prior threads, but couldn’t find a definitive answer.
I have a 242C that was leaking so I ran a dunk test on it and determined it was leaking heavily from the check valve. I pulled the check valve, soaked it in vinegar, gave it a good scrub, hit it with carb cleaner, and reinstalled (with o-ring). This achieved nothing the check valve engages, but leaks heavily even with the air stem tightened down. I assume it’s beyond repair and replace it with a new out of the package check valve.
The new check valve leaks...not nearly as bad, about a bubble per second, but leaks nonetheless. The leak is coming through the ball, not the threads. The air stem does not seal this leak. This is a brand new check valve.
I try a third time with a used check valve out of an old 425 stove. Similar results as the new check valve.
I’m beginning to think the lantern is cursed, but then I haven’t really had to dunk test any of my other lanterns so not sure how prevalent this problem is.
Should the check valve be air tight? If a slight leak is acceptable, shouldn’t the air stem at a minimum make it air tight?
Jake
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