Back in I purchased a few Import lathe chucks, Most were Chinese, At first I purchased one, when it came the specifications were questionable. Claimed runout in ten-thousands! I was surprised to see it was. And kept it for quite a while. I was impressed with the quality I purchased more! At the time a number of sellers on e-bay were selling Cushmans made in China. These chucks look like Cushman. I hand 4, 10" an 8" and 6" Three Jaw scroll chucks new in the boxes and a 10" 4 Jaw Independent in a wooded box. Sold one to a friend that is impressed with the quality!
I have quite a few chucks of different type and style and size. 10" Cushman 4 Jaw scroll with independent jaws and a 3 Jaw Italian made scroll with independent adjustable jaws.
I removed the 4 jaw chuck with D1-6 machined in the body still in a black protective goo. Cleaned it and set it up on my lathe then put in on the bench with all the other chucks. It too impress me as the jaw were snug in the slots but moved with light finger pressure, no noticeable chuck body runout.
The other day a guy came and wanted power side wheel for his band saw turned as the raised edge on the back side was gone, Used the Chuck I just cleaned and chucked the inside of the wheel with 3 spokes. The spacing was just right to allow me to use the 10" 4 jaw. Inside surface rough but I managed to get it in and take light cuts, All went well.
Later I had to turn a 3" short piece (3" long) one side 2.500 X 1-1/2 and the other side 1.000. I chucked the part in the 4 Jaw being too lazy to change it! Adjusted it fairly close and machine it to about 2.6 and bored the inside about .1 small too. Decide to rough the 1" side near to 1" before completing the 2.500 side so I put it in my other lathe with an almost new Buck 3 Jaw chuck. Runout was really bad! That 3" bar was turned form a badly rusted shaft a friend gave me after I did some rather dirty work on my lathe I cut the rust off before completely cleaning my lathe. When I seen the runout on a good chuck I thought I did a lousy job turning the rust off that shaft. Turned the 1.1 diameter and all ran good within .001, maybe .002. Put in back in the 4 Jaw and again bad wobble. the shaft was angled so that the face would not run true! I found a ground ID and OD hardened steel ring and chucked it on the ID in the 4 Jaw and took light cuts off the jaws with carbide boring bar. I could hear the cut, and 3 of the 4 jaws cut the same but one was way off. After getting all jaws cut alike in width and ID I re-chucked the part and it ran true after adjusting OD runout. The face ran perfect! Finished the job. Then looked at the jaws, 3 are the same and show only slight machining. One was cut so much the the groves were removed on one side in the front of the jaw. Most of the jaw was cut on the front. Today if I get a chance I will see what was bad the jaw or the chuck body! This chuck has the round hole cut in the face like the Cushman but no tag in it, just an empty hole.
Thought I would let everyone know that they should chuck a ground bar and check those import chucks before using them!
I'll post a photos later
Frank
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I've bought a 4"Vevor and 5" Sanou and saw no difference other than the name and size. In my opinion they are excellent chucks for the money, incredibly cheap. They are machined smooth and accurately but not hardened. I've been using my 5 inch for about 2 years now and have not noticed any wear but I would not expect them to hold up under heavy use. These chucks are a little annoying in one respect, the center bore is only 1-inch. I removed the jaws and used a boring bar and opened mine up to to 1.25" (the 5-inch). If you do the same, leave about 3/8" of the back the original diameter or you will cut into some screw holes that hold a dust cover on the back. I really like these chuck. I'm not afraid to alter them... Here is one work holding trick I did that I highly recommend. Honestly I've used the modification hundreds of times.
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