BBfarms
Posted 2/17/ 07:56 (#)
Subject: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
Goto G-Top to know more.
SE Michigan
New to me 580SM+ series II TLB. Used it for the first time and lost
(2
) teeth in 4 hours of digging stumps. Got some new teeth and retainers from the Case dealer and once I got them home and started to look closer, I see
(I think
) why they came off soo easy. The retainer is cone shaped at each end and looks almost too short.
This is the same on the other teeth as I looked closer, so I assume that they gave me the correct parts.
Question...
Is this common?? I cannot see how I can continue to "pull" stumps out and keep the teeth on, cna they be boltes? For standard digging
(Only force on the teeth - not pulling
) I cna understand that this would work. Photos may help, but is anyone has a better idea, please share
(IMG_[1].JPG)
(IMG_[1].JPG)
Attachments
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IMG_[1].JPG (74KB - 140 downloads) IMG_[1].JPG (83KB - 119 downloads) NoTill
Posted 2/17/ 08:04 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
NC Indiana
That's what our 580 SE retainers look like.
ekeller2
Posted 2/17/ 08:06 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
So. IL
That's the way rubber flex pins are, I hate them with the flair teeth. You can guarantee you will have them fall off doing tree work. boog
Posted 2/17/ 09:27 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
CAT is the same way. We have better luck using lock bolts WisTreemover
Posted 2/17/ 09:30 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
For more cat excavator bucket tooth supplierinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
East Central wisconsin
They've used this method for over 30 years. Seems to work OK. Two things, you might have better luck installing pin the other way, opposite of your photo. With the notched side forward. Because the notches latch around tooth shank. And if something is trying to pull tooth off shank, it's doesn't release notches from shank. Also I think of the pin as sacrificial. Kind of like a shear pin. I'd rather replace it, than tear the bottom of the bucket open. Good luck. Fingers77
Posted 2/17/ 10:23 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
Tree work in general is very hard on teeth and keepers.
As stated before, the keeper in the picture is backwards of the way it is supposed to go. There should be a 'Back' stamped on the straight side of it. It goes towards the back of the bucket, away from the teeth.
The main reasons that teeth get thrown are usually twofold. One, the shank surface must be clean. I always take an electric wire brush to them when changing teeth. Second, the oval shaped keeper hole in the shank MUST be clean also. I always used the threads of a 3/8" bolt to scour the inside of the shank hole. Dust and fines build up both in the hole and on the shank surface and it does not allow a tight first fit for the tooth.
If it had been used a while with no teeth, a worn shank will also contribute to teeth getting thrown.
A clean shank I feel from my experience is imperative. I always test fit a new tooth on the shank before setting the keeper. If it is loose on the shank with no keeper in, you are pretty much guaranteed the new tooth will get thrown. It is time to break out the welder and grinder and reshape the shank back to the way it is supposed to be.
Also, replace the keeper with every new tooth. NEVER reuse them, its a good way to lose an expensive new tooth. that was a hard lesson for my old cheap boss to learn. He wanted me to reuse keepers.
My old boss used to throw teeth almost daily it seemed until I started cleaning the shank and the pin hole. Since then, he almost never threw one.
Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to replacing that kind of tooth.
Bolts work OK, but we found that the tooth working back and forth on the oval shaped shank hole would eventually break the bolt. Another option might to tack weld the keeper hole partially shut once you put a new tooth on.
The teeth flex and move as they are used, and most times the old keepers come out slightly U shaped from it.
Detroit
Posted 2/17/ 12:17 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
Crawfordsville, Arkansas
I welded the teeth to the bucket on my old 580K. Lost a few before with the same type of deal the OP is having. Sometime long ago before I came along the hoe was ran with some of the teeth missing and the points were almost rounded off. The spring pins never would hold right. Got tired of buying more and more teeth and pins. Bolts worked but not for long. Good ole Miller mig welder solved the problem. I figured I could grind or torch the welds off when they needed replacing but we sold it and got another better backhoe before that time came though.
With welding I didn't have much to lose. It worked.
Edited by Detroit 2/17/ 12:18
hydem7
Posted 2/17/ 15:49 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
Central SD
I have had trouble wth losing those pins also. I remedied the situation by putting the tooth and the pin on the backhoe as they are supposed to be and then placing a small washer on each side of the tooth and Welding the washer on so the pin can't slide back out that whole. OlsonKrist
Posted 2/17/ 16:48 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Case backhoe bucket tooth retainers
nw MN
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit loader cutting edge manufacturer.
That is right. I couldn't get mine to stay on so I bolted them.