Stick a carbide tipped bar in and bore it, up past the actual engagement length/area.
If you bore it on a lathe, the relief is not a precision tolerance, so holding the solid register end in a collet or dialing in on a 4 jaw chuck is close enough for axial alignment even if the project collet projects a bit.
If you bore it in the mill with the bar in a V-block in the vise, put aluminum shims, or short pieces of aluminum TIG rod in each slit so the collet can be closed up tight in the spindle taper to prevent rattle and chatter. (Obviously?) use sensitive manual feed, or power down to a stop. If the length of the bore needs increased, perhaps use a length of allthread & nut for the drawbar so as not to drill off the end of the original. You can decide later whether to reduce the originals length, or not.
There's nothing sacred about collets.
smt
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Slightly OT, but a quick note about the clamping kit... Maybe someone else with an X2 can chime in.My X2 is in pieces at the moment (I need to clean off the red packing grease), but when I measured the T-slot opening in the table, I got values of approximately 11mm for the slot opening width.The HF clamping kit at 58 Piece Combination Step Block and Clamp Set - 3/8"-16 NC Studs, 1/2" Clamps makes reference to 1/2" table slots. Since 1/2" is approximately 12.7mm, I'm wondering whether the HF kit is OK for use with the X2.The LMS clamping kit at LittleMachineShop.com - Clamping Kit, 7/16" T-Slot claims that it is for 12mm slots, and it is described as a clamping kit for 7/16" T-slots. I believe that 7/16" equates to just over 11mm.Both clamping kits use 3/8" studs.So, are both kits good to go for the X2 table, or will the HF T nuts or clamps need to be milled down by a mm to fit?I think that I bought the LMS kit, but I have temporarily misplaced it among all of the tooling and accessories that I got for my mini mill and mini lathe, so I can't actually measure or check it right now...
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