There are a various nomenclature for oils, depending on if is is the US and the rest of the world. In the US there is also the confusion that there is SAE motor oil and SAE gear oil which are completely different. So the chart below gives you the conversion between ISO and SAE, this is only an indication of the viscosity not the other properties of the oil. As a general guidance for mills/lathes/machinery you do not want to use car oils, or gearbox/transmission oils because of the additive packages to these oils.Typically machinery gearbox oils will be listed as such, they also may be called hydraulic oils and spindle oil depending on the viscosity and properties. If I you look at most newer lathe manuals they usually specify an ISO32 oil for the headstock and an ISO68 for the gearboxes/carriage. On sliding surfaces yo will usually see something like Mobil Vactra #2 (ISO68) oil with tackifiers that make it stick to the metal. So if you looking for machine oils, look at the ISO viscosity number to guide you. The oil properties vary, so the base stock may be very different depending on the application. As you mentioned in a piston compressor, mineral oil is often the base stock, but there are no gears. In a gearbox a different base stock might be used or a different additive package.So for a machine ISO32 oil yo would want to use something like Mobil DTE 24 Hydraulic oil or Mobil DTE Light Circulation OilSo for a machine ISO68 oil yo would want to use something like Mobil DTE 26 Hydraulic oil light or Mobil DTE Heavy Medium Circulation OilThere is a numbered series and a named series, they will both fit you application, from what I have been told the numbered series is designed for high pressures and has a different (more slippery) additive package which may not be as suitable for a wet clutch type of system.If you are going to get a Gallon of say Mobile DTE24, 26 and Vactra #2 try Zoro with free shipping. If you sign up for their they will give you another 15% offOn the open drive gears (transposing gear) I use a highly viscous green impact grease, it is often used on heavy machinery and trailer hitches and will not fling off the gears. Oil will go everywhere and make a mess.
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Do you know and can you explain how sulfur in an oil adds lubricity? Certainly there are many oils that have no sulfur and I have not heard of sulfur containing oils described as heavy oils as opposed to llight oils.Want more information on oil pipe threading lathe machine? Feel free to contact us.
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Click to expand...The same reason most of the equipment in my shop is pre-, that I like to look at machining videos of - and the lathe (one of them) was sold to my great Uncle in about . You are right though, I do use modern stuff with some of the old stuff also. Sometimes it does work better.
I appreciate all the replies. Yes, I can read and know of the wonderful improvments in chemistry and being a diesel driver understand the importance of sulfur as a lubricant (but not so technically on a physics basis).That being said.I use a sharpening system for some cutting edges made up of compacted paper wheels with carbide grit glued to the edge. It originally used lard as a lubricant and is an excellent grind for a cutting edge. It never heats even a micro thin edge on )-1 steel for instance. In the 15 years I've used it I have never had a rancid smell, but I do keep the lard (for loading the grinding wheel) in the freezer.Yes I have and use live centers. I have and use dead centers. I have yet to see a 1/2 live center for cutting right up to the face (or really close) to the center.I have no particular need for using lard but have access to a lot of it, essentially free. And free is less than $16/container + shipping.Now I restate some questions:; I can see the desire to prevent "build of material on the cutting edge" and this is the closest I've come to understanding. My mental block is the exteme of both events seem to conflict. ie. lubricating a cutting edge vs the cutting edge being able to making a bite into the cut surface. For anyone who has cut metal on a lathe, it seems obvious that use of a cutting oil yields a better finish (for the most part).: Crisco lard, not vegetable oil, right? Was it applied in paste form out of the can, diluted or disolved in a solvent.Do you know and can you explain how sulfur in an oil adds lubricity? Certainly there are many oils that have no sulfur and I have not heard of sulfur containing oils described as heavy oils as opposed to llight oils.The same reason most of the equipment in my shop is pre-, that I like to look at machining videos of - and the lathe (one of them) was sold to my great Uncle in about . You are right though, I do use modern stuff with some of the old stuff also. Sometimes it does work better.Dave, please do not take offense in my comments and questions, I'm just trying to learn.
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